Nikko, Japan

With my eyes fixed intently on a spot on the wall, I repeated over and over in my head that I would not stare. But my eyes took a life of their own and before I knew it, I caught a glimpse of the vigorous scrubbing activity happening next to me. I told myself that I wasn’t being creepy, and instead, was taking notes on the proper procedure for bathing in an onsen, or hot spring. Except, I was breaking the number one rule: do not stare at others.

My initiation into the world of onsen bathing took place in the beautiful town of Nikko, less than two hours train ride from Tokyo. Boasting waterfalls, serene lakes and ancient temples, Nikko is a lovely and quick getaway for frazzled Tokyo residents eager to leave the urban jungle behind.

The male onsen

TO DO

Chuzenji Lake, located in central Nikko, is famous for its autumn leaves that burst to life in mid-to-late October. In fact, a resort town has sprung up next to it, taking advantage of the scenery and natural spring water from the mountain.

Unfortunately, we had arrived a week too early and the leaves were sadly still a verdant green. Nonetheless, the chance to walk up to the edge of the lake and dip my hands in the icy cold water, while watching the sun sink over Mount Nantai was worth the travel.

Watching sunlight dance off the glistening water

Sit on a rock and take in the raw scenery

Another key attraction in Nikko is the Kegon waterfall, thought to be among the three most beautiful waterfalls in the whole of Japan.

Standing at almost 100 metres, Kegon can be viewed from a free observation deck, or a paid platform at the base of the falls.

Just missing some autumn leaves

 

SLEEPING

Staying in a ryokan is a wonderful experience. Rooms are designed to mimic a traditional Japanese home, guests sleep on futons, walk around in cotton yukatas (robes), eat meals prepared using local produce and have access to a 24-hour onsen.

Our abode for the night was at the excellent Hotel Shikisai (54,600yen for 2 people/night with 2 meals, SGD838). What really sold it for me was that the rooms came with private bath facilities. With my initial apprehension about public baths, I convinced Zhaowei that I needed my own space.

Hot water piped into your own private bath

Room with a view

The bath tub is in a balcony that overlooks a private forest owned by the hotel, so don’t worry about trespassers tramping through the forest and chancing upon you bathing. However, the hotel staff did warn us of monkeys and deer who are known to come close to the hotel at night.

The indoor public onsen

The hotel has both an indoor and outdoor onsen. Believed to possess curative powers, the Japanese enjoy soaking in the scalding spring water that has a chalky texture, arising from the natural minerals found in the water. A soak is said to cure everything from skin problems to digestive difficulties.

Do remember to clean yourself from head to toe at one of the bathing stations before stepping into the onsen. The water is supposed to stay clean. Be forewarned that the water can be very, very hot. After the initial gritting of teeth, I went all the way up to my chin. Even then, the heat can be overwhelming and I had to get out 15 minutes later.

The outdoor onsen

 

I preferred the outdoor onsen as the chilly air was a perfect cure for the scalding water. The heat in the indoor onsen can get suffocating.

 

This hotel features separate baths for men and women, but some facilities offer mixed baths. So if you’re squeamish, do your research and find a hotel that suits you. However, shared baths are a long standing tradition and from what I hear, no one stares. But I’ve yet to verify such a statement.

 

EATING

The joy of staying in a ryokan includes having meals provided. And not just any meals. Depending on how much you pay, the meals can vary widely from simple Japanese fare to an elaborate multicourse kaiseki meal. And they always use the freshest local produce.

Salmon wrapped in apple Kobe beef nabemono

The meal is served course by course, and a waiter is on hand to explain the dish. Our waiter started off with detailed explanations for the first few dishes. But when he spotted my confused face (I don’t speak Japanese) and my constant gazing at Zhaowei for reassurance, the waiter asked “English?”. When I nodded, the descriptions became  “beef in soup”.

 

 

GETTING THERE

There are two trains from Tokyo – the Tobu-Nikko and the JR. The JR takes longer, and is more expensive, but it’s included if you buy the JR East Rail Pass (13,000 yen, SGD200). If you’re not travelling beyond one city, it might be a good idea to get the round trip Nikko pass (4,400 yen, SGD67), which includes bus rides within Nikko.

 

There’s a Tobu bus that loops the main attractions in Nikko. The bus fare is included in the Nikko pass, but if you’re using JR, you have to pay cash or use your Suica card (card with stored value). Stops are announced  in English and Japanese, but count the stops it’s not always clear.

 

If you’re staying at Shikisai, you can get the hotel to pick you up. Alternatively, you can take the bus and drop off at Chuzenji Onsen, which is at the lake. It’s then a 15-minute hike up a winding road (we tried that, as we wanted to see the lake first. But halfway climbing up the steep road, we threw in the towel and called the hotel for reinforcement.)

 

 

OVERALL IMPRESSION

If you’re looking for nature and an easy to reach one-day trip from Tokyo, Nikko is a good bet. But hotels can be pricey, so be prepared to pay a little more for the scenery. The Japanese do not speak much English either, so it might be best to settle your transportation via email before arriving.

 

Nikko is also not an attraction destination, so kick up your legs and enjoy some downtime instead.

Lobby area with magazines and coffee at all hours