“Joanne-san, Joanne-san..” Certain I had heard my name being called, I looked up and scanned my surroundings for a familiar face. I was in a cramp changing room, surrounded by women of different ages in various states of undress. Seeing no one I knew - and really, who was I expecting to meet in a remote mountainous hot spring - I went back to undressing.
“Joanne-san…” Whipping my head up quicker this time, I traced the voice to a young female attendant who was searching the crowd. Hesitantly, I approached her. Running through the five Japanese sentences I knew, I gave a tentative “Hai? Watashi wa Joanne-desu.” (Translation: “Yes? I am Joanne.”)
Relieved, the attendant broke into rapid Japanese. My eyes widened and quickly glazed over. Praying for a miracle, I used the only other sentence I knew. “Nihongo wakarimasen. Eigo?” (Translation: “I don’t speak Japanese. English?”) Noting the panic on my face and high-pitch squeak, the attendant searched her vocabulary. Pointing to the door and using her fingers to encircle her eyes in the universally understood sign for spectacles, she said “boyfriend?”
As it turned out, I had forgotten to take a towel to the onsen and if not for Zhaowei’s intervention, would probably have had to shake the water off my body.
Boasting a 300-year history, Sukayu-onsen is located in a mountainous area in Aomori prefecture, famed for its autumn leaves. Popular with the locals, many would go for a quick soak (500yen for a day pass, SGD7.50) after a long day of hiking. While there are separate baths, you can also opt for the 1,000-person mixed bath.
TO DO
Having stayed the night at the picturesque Towada Lake, we decided to embark on a 14-kilometre hike along Oirase stream.
A relatively simply walking trail, dozens of waterfalls feed into the stream. Bridges and wooden benches dot the trail, convenient for a quick break or to set up the perfect shot. A busy road runs parallel to the lake and during peak season, it’s crammed with tour buses and cars. But the trail is fairly deep in the forest, enough to drown out the sound of traffic, and yet, near enough for you to run to the road if you need help.
Do remember to get a pamphlet from the visitor centre, as the signs are all in Japanese.
Standing 7 metres tall and 20 metres wide, the Choshi Otaki waterfall is the widest along Oirase stream.
After hiking for over two hours, and with daylight fading fast, we decided to call it a day and head back to Aomori City.
We had yet to see much autumn colours at this point, and were feeling rather down. So when the bus passed a marshland that hinted of yellows and reds, we immediately got off.
Surrounded by the 5 Hakkohda mountains, Suirennuma pond is popular with photography enthusiasts. A viewing deck provides a panoramic vantage point.
While the scenery was spectacular, it was still not quite the vibrant red that we were chasing after. And the temperature was dropping fast. Dressed more appropriately for a brisk spring wind then the bone-numbing autumn chill, we beat a hasty retreat to the bus-stop, only to find out that the next bus was in an hour’s time.
Refusing to spend 60 excruciating minutes in the cold, with no shelter from the elements save a small pavilion that did little to block the wind, I urged Zhaowei to help us get a ride. He eventually approached a kind-looking elderly Japanese couple who agreed to drive us to a place with more signs of civilisation.
After learning that we had failed to find our autumn leaves, the couple brought us to Jigokunuma Swamp, a famous autumn leaves viewing spot, and even offered to wait for us as we took a quick look. 
The couple finally dropped us off at Sukayu-onsen, which was also conveniently located next to the bus-stop that would take us back to Aomori City.
Lake Towada is another scenic hotspot and is said to be one of the most beautiful lakes in Japan. Especially in autumn, when the leaves burst into brilliant reds. Of course, do time your trip properly or you may be left viewing brown and green instead.
The Otome no Zo Statue, or Bronze statue of maidens, was created in 1953 to commemorate the 15th anniversary of Lake Towada being designated as a national park.
SLEEPING
With natural hot spring water flowing from the mountains and streams, numerous onsens have popped up in Towada, providing lodging, 2 meals and unlimited access to the hot baths.
We stayed near Lake Towada, which is also a lovely nature destination. Very much a tourist town, restaurants and gift shops abound should you need a distraction from all that nature.
A basic room with both Western beds and Japanese futons, each night’s stay comes with 2 meals that are served in the room (15600yen, SGD230). A lake view would cost more than the mountain view. There’s also a kitchen, should you be inclined to cook for yourself. Do note that the hotel is rather large, with 2 wings. And the hotel tends to switch off lights in parts of the hotel that are not occupied.
GETTING AROUND
If you’re travelling from Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Hachinohe, then transfer to the JR “Oirase” bus to Lake Towada (2,600yen or SGD40, free with JR rail pass). The bus also travels along the Oirase stream, so you can hop on and off. Just remember to check the timings, as the last bus leaves relatively early.
If you’re coming in from Aomori, take the JR “Mizu umi” bus to Lake Towada (3,000 yen or SGD45, free with JR rail pass).
The ride is about 2.5 hours one way.
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