Sunday, March 6, 2011

Bali, Indonesia

A heady blend of ancient temples, 5-star hotels and tantalizing cuisine, Bali is the quintessential romantic getaway. Take a stroll among jade green rice fields, sink your feet into powder soft sand, visit a crumbling temple where incense floats lazily towards the heavens, or lounge by a gorgeous pool under the clear blue sky with cocktail in hand.

Many tourists rave about the gentle and impeccable service provided by the Balinese. While this is very true – we received flawless service everywhere – the Balinese are also incredibly wily businessmen. All services outside of hotels are paid on a “negotiation” basis. The Balinese hate putting a dollar to their service, be it a taxi or tour operator, and would ask you to pay “what you think is right”. But under-quote and their attitude switches in an instance.

Still, don’t let that spoil your holiday. Do your research and always keep your cool. The Balinese hate loud, confrontational people.

This trip, we concentrated on Ubud, which is the mountainous area in Bali known for its resorts and artists’ villages.

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TO DO

Learn how to cook a Balinese dish, take a walk through rice terraces, visit an active volcano, trek through primary forests, visit a spice garden, engage in some water activities…. the list of island activities is endless. Many visitors are inclined to simply lounge by the pool and soak up the Bali sun before taking a dip in ice cool water. Nothing wrong with that, but take the time to venture outside your hotel and you’d be richly rewarded.

I would strongly suggest getting a guide to take you around these places, rather than attempt on your own. Simply because there aren’t many public transportation options. And the individual cab fares tend to add up quickly as fares are not charged by the metre, but are negotiated at the start of the ride.

Due to bad planning, ZW and I used the hotel taxi for 2 days, but at 80,000 rupiahs (SGD11) per one-way trip, it was grossly expensive for a 5-minute ride to town.

On our last day, we finally got down to arranging for a tour guide to take us around for half a day before driving us to the airport. For 400,000 rupiahs (SGD57), our English-speaking tour Eddy took us around in his air-conditioned Toyota. Eddy worked in the US for 3 years before returning to Bali to start a family. A great source of information on both the sites and economic situation of his people.

We found Eddy’s contact on TripAdvisor. Other tour guides with contact information are also listed.

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Visit a Spice Garden

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Raw coffee beans

The Bali Coffee Agrotourism is mainly a coffee plantation. But it also produces spices such as nutmeg, vanilla bean and cinnamon. Be warned though, that prices are high as the place caters to tourists.

Climb an active volcano

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Mount Batur Volcano

We asked Eddy if there were any volcanos in the vicinity and he brought us to a vantage point that overlooks the volcano and a crater created years ago, which has since become Batur Lake. Eddy told us it’s possible to hike up the mountain. Restaurants and hotels have also sprung up in the area. Unfortunately, we were heading home that same day.

 

EATING

Your tastebuds will be spoilt for choice in Bali. Western food options abound, but some newer chefs have taken to using local spices in their food, resulting in excellent fusion choices. I hesitate to recommend eating off the street. I’m usually the adventurous type and geared up for anything. And some of the best food are indeed found in hole-in-the-wall type of establishments. That said, I also came down with a violent bout of food poisoning after eating at a highly recommended place. So, eat at your own risk.

Prices vary greatly as well, depending on whether you’re a roadside connoisseur or haute cuisine type.

Mozaic

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Victoria rack of lamb (braised endive's, peaches & Guiness beer emulsion in a jasmine-balsamic coulis)

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Mozaic lounge

Guests are invited to take a seat in the lounge, order up a cocktail while deciding which menu to choose. The food is exquisitely prepared, and your meal is taken in a green veranda, surrounded by luscious foliage and the soothing sounds of water fountains in the background.

Certainly not cheap, at about SGD200 per person, but certainly well-worth the experience.

Naughty Nuri’s

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BBQ ribs and New York martini

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Roadside cooking

Whether it’s firing up the charcoal grill to cook some ribs, or expertly shaking up the best martini I’ve tasted in a long while, the waitresses at Naughty Nuri’s have it down to an art form. Who would have thought I’d find the most buttery-soft ribs (70,000 rupiahs or SGD10) that fall off the bone at the lightest prodding, or a chilled, dry martini, in Bali? The eclectic mix of food means you can also find fresh tuna sashimi and hot dogs.

 

SLEEPING

The range of accommodation in Bali is staggering. From hostels to deluxe villas, every taste and type is catered for. Fork out a little more and you can land yourself a beautiful mountain resort, or even book one of the numerous private villas that dot the island. Go ahead, indulge a little.

Alila Ubud

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Balinese-inspired room decor with wood elements

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The famous Alila infinity pool

The Alila hospitality is legendary. Hotel staff greet you by name (or at least, they greet ZW), always have a smile on their face and try to accommodate any request you have. My colleague attempted to test this out when she requested for yoga equipment and a television prior to her stay. Everything was laid out when she walked into the room.

 

OVERALL IMPRESSION

With its slow pace of life, welcoming people and amazing resorts, Bali is definitely a lover’s paradise. While things have become more expensive over the years, thanks to its thriving tourism sector, it’s still affordable luxury.

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